I originally wrote this guide for friends who have never been to Paris. I've had several requests for copies, so I decided to publish it on annie's nuggets. 

I will update the guide frequently as I have new Paris experiences. I suggest you check back here the next time you are going to Paris so that you have the latest information. 

I have visited Paris two to three times a year for twenty years. It is by far my favorite city. I wrote this guide in the hopes that I can help make Paris your favorite city, too. 

Amicalement,

Annie

Annie's Guide to Paris

General Information

Paris is divided into 20 numbered Arrondissements (ah-roun-dis-mons), similar to zip codes. The river Seine flows east to west in a horseshoe shape just south of dead center. South of the river is the Left Bank, North of the river is the Right Bank. It’s wise to know in which Arrondissement you are staying and if you are staying in the Right or Left Bank. 

 

Tip: Street names are usually on a blue plaque on buildings at street corners. The arrondissement is above the street name.

 

Airport Arrival to Paris

The easiest way to get to hotel from either airport is the OFFICIAL TAXI STAND. Follow the directional signs on the floor and be sure to get in the line that has a captain to direct you to the next taxi. Taxis are the only cars allowed to drive in the taxi lane on the highway and are much faster than private car, UBER, etc. Plus it is difficult to find where a private car or UBER will pick you up. Taxis are a flat rate, 65€ to left bank, 56€ to right bank from CDG. Sometimes if there is a lot of luggage they will add a few euros for handling the luggage. Round up to tip. 

Establish with the driver UP FRONT if you plan to pay with a credit card. Drivers have to pay high taxes on their earnings, so they naturally prefer cash. If you wait until your ride is over to use your credit card, they usually will tell you the “machine is broken”. 

Train Arrival to Paris

Find the official taxi line outside of the train station. The captain will direct you to the next cab. Don’t go with a taxi unless the captain directs you. Say Bonjour, Monsieur to the driver, then tell them where you are going and ask how much it will cost approximately. Taxis are more agreeable if you pay them in cash. If you pay with a cc, be sure to check the amount and GET A PAPER RECEIPT.

If you want to take an Uber from the train station, leave the station and go to the nearest cafe and call the Uber from there. Uber can’t pick up from the train station.

UBER vs TAXI around Paris

I only use taxis from the airport or train stations. I have found that UBER is much easier to use to get around the city. I don’t have to communicate with the driver and they know where I’m going. I know up front how much the fare will be. I usually add a 1€-2€ tip.

Money

The best way to get Euros is at a bank ATM. TIP: Find an ATM that is located at a bank and use the ATM during banking hours. If there is a problem you can go into the bank and talk with someone. 

Paying the bill in a restaurant/cafe

The waiter will not approach you with the bill until you ask for it. Best way is to get his attention and motion like you are signing a check. Or you can say “L’addition, s’il vous plait.” (Use Google Translate for the correct pronunciation). He will ask you if you are paying by cash or credit card.

If you are paying with a credit card, the waiter will bring the charge machine to you. They will never take your card away from the table. 

Tipping

A tip is NOT expected. Always have coins and small bills for tipping. Don’t add a tip to a credit card payment. Tip 5%-10% for good service. This applies to waiters and taxis. In a hotel, tipping a few euros for carrying your bag is customary. 

Apps

The apps I rely on are:

Google Translate download the language, use off line

Tripit for storing trip details

Flight Aware 

Rick Steves Europe -Walking tours and interesting podcasts

XE for exchange rates 

Rome to Rio for suggested ways to get from Point A to Point B

Uber

Bonjour RAPT for Metro tickets and schedules

Rules, Customs, and Manners

Never put your phone on the table or purse hanging on back of chair. Keep your purse in your lap.

Ignore ANYONE who tries to speak to you on the street. Give them a firm NO without eye contact.

If you charge anything or use the ATM you might be asked if you want your account charged in the local currency or your home currency. ALWAYS select the local currency. Selecting your home currency is allowing them to use any exchange rate they choose.

ALWAYS pause and say Bonjour, Madame/Monsieur when you encounter ANYONE—store personnel, waiters, taxi drivers, hotel people, EVERYONE. When you leave, ALWAYS say Merci, Au revoir. 

Don’t touch merchandise in a small store or fruit market unless you ask the store person if it is okay.

Unlike in the US, it is considered rude to put your hands under the table in your lap when eating.

Pizza is eaten with a knife and fork. It is not served sliced and never eaten with fingers.

The French smoke when sitting outdoors in a restaurant. If it bothers you, eat indoors.

Europeans in general do not eat or drink while walking around. They do not carry water around with them. When they want to eat or drink, they go to a cafe and sit.

If you see people dressed in work out clothes they are tourists. French women only wear work out clothes while working out.

Ordering water in a restaurant: 

Bottled water that you pay for—order still (mineral) or with gas (sparkling) 

Tap water that is free—order a “carafe d’eau” (“carafe dough”). 

A bathroom is called the toilette, or WC. (A bathroom is where you bathe, a rest room is where you rest.) It is usually in the basement of a cafe or restaurant. If you are out and need to “go”, ordering something at a cafe buys you the right to use the toilette. Don’t be surprised if men and ladies share.

You may see people selling bottles of water out of buckets. Don’t buy this water. These guys are known to fish used bottles out of trash cans, fill them with tap water, and resell them.

In restaurants, the “entree” is the appetizer, the “plat” is the entree. Often “menu” is a fixed 2 or 3 course meal for one price.

The French take their dogs with them everywhere and dogs are allowed in restaurants. Be aware that often there is dog poo on the sidewalks. I have found most French people to be quite hostile if you approach their dog or talk to the dog, much like they would if it were a child. 

Staying in the 6th Arrondissement

I have stayed in many of the arrondissements, but my favorite is the 6th, Saint Germain. If you look at the map above, you will see that the 6th is right in the middle of Paris. It is very easy to walk everywhere if you are staying in the 6th. It is a beautiful, safe area.

I wrote the rest of this guide primarily for people who are staying in Saint Germain. If you are not staying in this area, you may have to modify it a bit.

                 

Annie’s Favorite Paris Restaurants 

Since I usually stay in the 6th Arrondissement, my favs are mostly in that area or within walking distance.

Le Jardin St-Germain

Located on a side street a short walk down Blvd St Germain toward the Latin Quarter

A new, small, intimate restaurant with excellent food and even better service. Christian and Shaan opened Le Jardin St Germain in 2024. Shaan was a Ralph Lauren chef before venturing out on his own. The food is innovative and delicious, not heavy. I love the fish and the pain perdu. Dining here is like visiting family. Located on a side street off Blvd St Germain. Reservations are suggested but not mandatory.

https://le-jardin-saint-germain.eatbu.com/

Brasserie Vagenende

Go for the building, stay for the food. Make reservations. Friendly waiters, excellent food. The fish shuffle sounds terrible but it’s amazing.

Located right on Blvd St Germain

https://www.en.vagenende.com/

Rue de Buci/ Rue de Seine

(An entire street of restaurants. I call it Restaurant Row)

From Maison Sauvage with their beautiful floral décor to the seafood towers of Atlas, this street has everything you need. Honestly pick any restaurant along the main block of Buci and you’re sure to have a good time. Go to Maison Sauvage for cocktails, Atlas for seafood or beef bourguignon, Café de Paris specifically for their scallops, or Maison Thevenin for desserts after dinner. I love going to Cafe Jade for breakfast and The Smiths for treats. 

This is also a late-night spot, so places tend to stay open longer here.

La Citrouille

A small, casual, family-owned restaurant known for really good food. I especially love the Tarte a L’oignon (onion tart, with salad). The 24€ prix fix menu comes with entree (appetizer), plat (entree) and dessert. It’s a lot of food! The chocolate mousse is spectacular. It’s on a side street just off of the rue de Buci/rue de Seine area.

https://www.restaurantlacitrouille.fr/

Le Precope

You can’t miss going to Le Precope, even if you don’t eat there. (the food is good, however, there are many mixed reviews). It is the oldest restaurant in Paris and where the idea of America was “hatched”. Huh? Yes, Thomas Jefferson and Ben Franklin hung out here with LaFayette, and together they hashed out the concept of freedom and democracy for the new world. Napoleon also was a frequent visitor. When he was a young soldier he couldn’t afford his bar bill at Precope so he left his hat. The hat is still on display. 

Le Precope is a good spot for lunch or dinner, or just a coffee and dessert.

https://www.procope.com/en/

Café Louise 

(Modern French fare)

Lots of seafood on the menu. It’s a charming bistro with fantastic vaulted stone ceilings. Interesting cocktails but also good for a glass of wine. Simple yet charming. Blvd Saint-Germain across from Cafe de Flore. 155 bd Saint Germain 75006  (no website) Stop in to reserve.

Le Bistrot de Paris

I love a real Parisian restaurant. This place is drop dead gorgeous. The waiters in their black suits fly back and forth and are always in a hurry. The food is old style French. I often go by myself and let them pick my meal for me. It’s always excellent. And the chocolate mouse, ooh la la! It’s on rue de Lille on the way to (or from) Musee de’Orsay.

https://lcep.fr/le-bistrot-de-paris/

La Creperie du Clown

You probably wouldn’t find this place if I didn’t tell you about it. I’m not really a crepe girl, but last time I was in Paris I went three times in one week! It’s a tiny place on a quiet side street just south of Blvd St Germain (just down from CityPharma) I love it for lunch, late breakfast, or early dinner. 6 rue des Canettes, Paris, France 75006

https://www.instagram.com/creperieduclown/

Le Paris Paris (breakfast)

Hidden in plain site across from the Marche St Germain, this adorable restaurant is the perfect breakfast spot. The coffee and the omelets are very French, the internet is good, and it’s fun to people watch.

http://www.leparisparis.fr/

Cafe Jade (breakfast or lunch)

On rue de Buci in the “restaurant row” area I talk about above. Love the omelets and coffee. 

Le Deux Magots

This is a historic restaurant right across from the Saint Germain church. Hemmingway ate and drank here frequently. 

I have heard the food is good, but I always go for afternoon espresso and pastry. My favorite is the lemon tart. The eclairs are iconic. 

Eat outside in the covered “garden”. 

Cafe de Flore

I have a love-hate relationship with Cafe de Flore. IF it isn’t crowded and IF you can get a seat on the porch or outside, it is delightful. (Don’t let them put you at a crowded table inside or upstairs!) The problem is finding a time when it isn’t crowded. I’ve had luck at around 7pm for an early dinner, before the Europeans think about eating. I love their salad nicoise. If it’s very crowded don’t bother, there are too many other places that are better.

Boullion Racine

The food is as beautiful as the surroundings. GORGEOUS Art Nouveau. Reservations are required. (There are several “Bouillon” restaurants in Paris with mixed reviews. I’ve eaten at Racine several times and it was perfection every time.)

https://bouillonracine.fr/en/home/

Le Bistroy Les Papilles

This is a really fun, very French dining experience. The restaurant is very popular and the tables are squeezed together. There is one menu of the day. The menu includes: A soup, a simple dish of braised meat and vegetables, dessert. Take it or leave it. I advise you to take it. Les Papilles has won tons of awards and the chef is a bit of a celebrity.

http://www.lespapillesparis.fr/

Angelina’s (Brunch, dessert, or hot chocolate)

There are a few Angelina’s scattered around Paris. My favorites are the rue Rivoli and the Luxembourg Gardens locations. I don’t mind waiting in line at the rue Rivoli location because the 1900’s tearoom is so elegant. All of the locations have the famous hot chocolate (like a melted chocolate bar in a cup). I also enjoy their desserts and brunch.

https://www.angelina-paris.fr/

Restaurants in Ile de St Louis

Le Saint Regis

https://www.lesaintregis-paris.com/v

Cafe Med

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g187147-d1787161-Reviews-Cafe_Med-Paris_Ile_de_France.html

Aux Anysetiers du Roy

www.anysetiersduroy.com

Annie’s Favorite Restaurants in Other Arrondissements 

I usually stop in to an interesting restaurant based on where I am and what I’m doing. Most of the time I don’t keep track of the name. 90% of the time it works out and the food is great.

Le Souffle near Place Vendome in the 1st. Must reserve. 

La Terrasse du 7eme—great for people watching-  7th

Cafe du Marche on rue Cler- 7th

La Petaudiere in Montmarte

 

Annie’s Favorite Things to Do

When signing up for a tour or buying tickets, go through the company directly. Do not use third party ticket sellers, such as Tripadviser, Get Your Guide, Viator etc. 

Group Walking Tours

To really understand Paris in a short amount of time, I always recommend taking group tours. Just the process of getting to the tour helps orient your to your surroundings. There are millions of Paris tours, but I can highly recommend the information and professionalism of these three companies:

Paris Walks Walking Tours

    

Best tour guides and a great variety of tours. I have taken many of them, some multiple times! My favorites are: Hemingway’s Paris, The French Revolution, Paris during the Occupation and Liberation.  

http://www.paris-walks.com

Paris Charms and Secrets Bike Tour

This is a 4 hour electric bike tour. Its awesome! I’ve done it at least 4 times. Everyone says it’s the highlight of their trip. The guides are so knowledgeable and you learn so much about Paris. 

https://www.parischarmssecrets.com 

Paris by Mouth Food Tour

 

This is a MUST DO. I have been on many food tours, this is by far the best. The tour guides are people well known in the food industry in Paris. One guide was a judge for the best croissant in France! The Left Bank tour and the West St Germain tour are both near the 6th.  

https://parisbymouth.com/

Museums

No to the Louvre. I’m sorry, I know it’s blasphemy. It’s huge, it’s crowded and Mona Lisa is terribly overrated.

My two favorites:

Musee d’Orsay

Located between the 6th and 7th in a gorgeous old train station. Largest collection of Impressionist paintings. Rent the headset or hire a guide. I could spend all day. The cafe is also wonderful. Buy tickets on line for a timed entry. 

https://www.musee-orsay.fr/en

Musee de l’Orangerie

Easy to walk to location next to the Tuileries Gardens and Place de Concord. First floor has Monet’s huge water lilies murals. The basement has wonderful collections of various artists.

https://www.musee-orangerie.fr/en

Fun Stuff

The After Hours Tour of the Palais Garnier, Paris Opera House

I LOVED this!

Visit The Mysteries of the Palais Garnier (after closing):  Discover all the secrets of the Paris Opera in this visit outside opening hours to the general public. In a cozy atmosphere, discover or rediscover a timeless place. Length of visit: 1h15 - (after 5pm closing time). 

https://www.manatour.fr/en/palais-garnier

The Notre-Dame Virtual Reality Experience

I can’t explain this. Just trust me. Through virtual reality you experience the history of Notre-Dame, the  initial construction, the fire, and the current rebuilding. It’s only 45 minutes and one of the funnest things I’ve ever done. Be sure to sign up for the location in front of Notre- Dame, not the Le Defense location. You can buy timed tickets on line.

https://www.eternellenotredame.com/en

Vedettes du Pont Neuf—Boat Ride to the Eiffel Tower and Back

Walk to Pont Neuf via rue Dauphine. As you go across the bridge you will see stairs going down to the river on the left. Walk down the stairs to catch the boat. Try to go just before sunset so you can see the Eiffel Tower light up. 

https://www.vedettesdupontneuf.com

Annie's Favorite Walks

I’le Saint Louis/ Marais (great Sunday activity)

Walk to I'le Saint Louis. Walk around this very quiet island. This was the original Paris. Have lunch or coffee. (See restaurant list)

Walk across the river to the Marais. This was the wealthy part of town and also the Jewish section. I always go on Sunday when the shops and restaurants are open and bustling. (Things are closed on Saturday because it’s the Sabbath).

Visit Place de Vosges. Have dessert/hot chocolate at Carette. Notice the architecture around Place de Vosges is concrete and brick. This type of facade is what was used for the very wealthy homes. If you have time, visit Victor Hugo’s apartment in the corner of the square. 

The main street for the Jewish section is rue de Rossiers. Grab a Jewish pastry or pastrami sandwich. Or wait in line for a falafel. 

The Jardin du Luxembourg Walk

Take rue Bonaparte south away from the river. It is a beautiful walk. 

The Church of Saint-Germain-des-Prés is at rue Bonaparte and Blvd St Germain on the left. Pop in and admire the blue ceiling. It is considered the oldest existing church in Paris.

Le Deux Magots is on the right. 

Continue down rue Bonaparte across Blvd St Germain. 

You will pass CityPharma at rue de Four. Keep walking. 

St Suplice church is on the left. It’s stunning. Visit inside. 

The actress Catherine Deneuve lives in the apartment across the street from St Suplice on rue Bonaparte. 

Keep going down rue Bonaparte til you get to Luxembourg Gardens. Find a gate and go inside.

This is my favorite area of Paris. You really get a feel for how the French relax. Luxembourg Gardens was the home of Marie de Medici who was married to Henry IV. She had the palace built in the 1600’s. It now houses the Senate. 

Walk around, take pictures. Stop at Angelina’s for their famous hot chocolate. Don’t miss the Medici Fountain. 

Rue Rivoli Walk

Take rue Bonaparte to the river. Take a left. Go across the Pont du Carrousel bridge. Keep walking straight through the middle of the Louvre. Enjoy the splendor of this famous art museum and home of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette. 

Turn left on rue Rivoli. As you walk you will see the Tulleries Gardens in the left. You will pass many shops on this bustling street.

During the Nazi Occupation, this whole section of rue Rivoli was taken over by the Nazis. The street was closed to traffic. The Nazi Headquarters was the elegant Hotel Le Maurice. Pop into Le Maurice to have a peek. (Le Maurice has an amazing afternoon tea)

Stop at Angelina’s (there is always a line, it goes quickly) for their world famous hot chocolate. (They also have good lunch items). Don’t miss the bathrooms upstairs. Women took their daughters to Angelina’s for afternoon tea in the 1800’s. Coco Chanel was a regular. 

Walk to rue Castiglione, turn right. Walk to Place Vendome. The obelisk was made out of old artillery by Napoleon to honor French soldiers. Visit the Ritz, one of the most famous hotels in the world. Coco Chanel had a suite there and entertained Germans during WW2. Princess Diana was last seen going out the back door. 

Have a drink in Hemmingway’s Bar at the Ritz and people watch. 

Walk back to rue Rivoli and continue until you come to Place de la Concorde. The American Embassy is on the right. Also on the right is the Hotel Crillon, where the treaty between England and the newly formed United States of America was signed. 

Across from Hotel Crillon, in Place de la Concorde, Queen Marie Antoinette was beheaded. 

From Place de la Concorde you can see all the way down the Champs Elysee to the Arc de Triumph. 

Walk back the way you came down rue Rivoli on the Tuileries Garden side. When you come to an opening to the Gardens, walk through the Tuileries. Enjoy a little respite on the chairs near the fountain. 

When you are ready, walk back across the Seine and through St Germain to your hotel. 

Notre Dame Walk

Follow your Google Maps to Notre Dame. As you walk from the 6th into the 5th, you’ll notice a subtle change in atmosphere. The 6th is quiet and sophisticated. The 5th, also known as the Latin Quarter, is rowdy, crowded, and lively. 

As you make your way toward Notre Dame, before you cross the river, you’ll find one of my favorite areas. It’s also one of the oldest areas of Paris. 

Follow Google Maps to Shakespeare and Company bookstore. It’s the oldest and most famous English bookstore in Paris. It’s fun to say you’ve been there but is often crowded with tourists. 

Walk behind Shakespeare and Company away from the river down rue Saint Julian le Pauvre. That is also the name of the little church on the left. Behind the church is a beautiful park/garden with benches if you need a break. At the end of the street is Odette, a tiny bakery that serves the most exquisite cream puffs, or choux a la creme. (I always plan my walk so that I can have afternoon coffee and a cream puff at Odette!) Odette is on rue Galande. If you peek down rue Galande, you will see that nothing has changed since 1700. It looks like a movie set.

Walk back towards the church, cross the bridge, and you will see Notre Dame in all of it’s glory. While you’re there, explore I’le de Cite, the island that was the first Paris.

The 7th Arrondissement/Eiffel Tower Walk

I stayed in the 7th near the Eiffel Tower my first ten years of visiting Paris. I love to spend a day walking over to that neighborhood, having lunch, exploring, and if I’m not exhausted, cross the river and visit the Petit Palace.

From St Germain, it is about a 45 minute walk.

Take rue Jacob west. It turns into rue de l’Universite. Follow past where rue de l’Universite and Blvd St Germain intersect. Julia Childs apartment was at 81 rue de l’universite! Keep walking….

When you approach a busy, open area you will see Invalides to your left. It is the old Hospital for Veterans. Continue down rue l’Universite all the way to the Eiffel Tower.

Once you have oooh’d and awww’d at the Eiffel Tower, find rue Cler on your map and make your way there.

Rue Cler is a shopping street that Rick Steves made very popular. It is a wonderful street to explore, eat, shop, people watch. 

From rue Cler, go to rue Dominique, take a right, and start walking back towards the 6th. If you look behind you, you’ll get some great shots of the Eiffel Tower. I love to stop and have a coffee break at LIBERTE on rue Dominique.

If you follow rue Dominique it will run right into Blvd St Germain.

On your way, you’ll pass one of my favorite churches, Basilique Sainte-Clothilde.

More things to do and see……

There is so much to do and see in Paris! I keep a running list and every time I go back I check my list. Pick the things that are important to you, but don’t try to cram it all in. Enjoy what you can and come back again for the rest!

St Chapelle 

The beautiful stained glass is worth a visit. It’s usually crowded and they are strict about how many can go in at a time. If you are a night owl, get tickets to the evening classical concert. Many people I know said it was the highlight of their entire trip!

Arc de Triumph

During WW2, when the Nazis occupied France, they took Paris by goose-stepping through the Arc de Triumph. This was the most demoralizing thing they could have done to the French. The Arc de Triumph was built by Napoleon to honor those who fought in the French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars, and is the home of the Unknown Soldier.

Eiffel Tower

The best view of the Eiffel Tower is across the river at the Trocadero. The easiest way is to take an Uber, then when you are finished, walk across the river and explore the 7th. (Or, if you are ambitious, follow The 7th Arrondissement/Eiffel Tower Walk above.)

If you want to be closer, be aware that every pickpocket and panhandler is just waiting for tourists to be so impressed with the Eiffel tower that they forget to hide their wallets!

If you explore the 7th arrondissement (including the rue Cler area that Rick Steves has made so popular) you can see the Eiffel Tower peeking around corners and down side streets. I love going down rue Cler towards the river, then east on rue Dominque. Stop at LIBERTE for a coffee and a pastry. A few blocks down you can turn around and see the Eiffel Tower at the end of the street behind you.

My favorite way to see the Eiffel Tower is on the Vedettes du Pont Neuf.

CityPharma

I can’t resist mentioning CityPharma because I love to visit whenever I’m in Paris. It’s often very crowded and confusing. I tried going in with a list of French creams I wanted to buy (there are tons of YouTube videos), but I have found the best way is to find a lady with a white coat, ask her what you need, and buy what she recommends. (Be sure to bring your passport if you plan to claim VAT tax)

Classical Concerts in Churches

If you really want to have a memorable experience, try an evening classical concert in a gorgeous church.

Keep your eye out for posters at nearby churches, specifically, St Germain and St Suplice, for concert dates/times, and where to buy tickets. The concerts last maybe an hour. You can’t beat beautiful music in an incredible venue!

Montmarte

I often plan a whole day to explore Montmarte. I usually take the Metro, but I don’t recommend it. When you arrive at your stop you are underground at the very bottom of a large hill. Therefore, there are about 500 steps to walk up just to get to land!

An easier, quicker way is to Uber and have the driver take you directly to the Basilique du Sacré-Cœur He will drop you off at the top of the steps. Stand at the top of the steps and enjoy the spectacular view over all of Paris…..

Warning: this area and the Eiffel Tower are crawling with pick-pockets! Constantly be aware!

Montmarte is the area outside of the city where the artists used to hang out. It’s very artsy and fun. Walk over to the Place du Tertre, the square where artists are painting. You can sit at a cafe around the square and watch the artists and the tourists. I also like to wander through the Montmarte cemetery, walk up and down the old streets where Renoir used to live, find the restaurant La Maison Rose for great photos. Monmarte is also home to the only vineyard in Paris! 

Whenever I visit Montmarte I usually eat at a little restaurant called La Petaudiere on rue Poulbot. I’ve been going there for over 20 years. It’s a great little lunch place and looks like it hasn’t changed in 600 years. Sometimes they have a piano player.

If you are going to have an Uber pick you up to take you back to your hotel, it’s easiest to walk down the hill to a major road. If you walk toward the Abbesses Metro stop, you’ll be able to pop in to see the famous Wall of Love.